West Highland Way, Scotland
May 3, 2007
The West Highland Way, Scotland
Sixteen members of the Coachella Valley Hiking Club gathered in Milngavie, Scotland to begin a 95 mile trek alongside lakes, through forests and treeless mountains and heathered, boggy moors. . . a landscape far different to what we see in the USA.
The first day we hiked under sunny skies to Drymen, 12 miles thru county parks, loaded with bluebells, down country lanes and across cow and sheep pastures. The WHW marker showed us the way via gates and stiles to paths by pretty streams and farmland divided by centuries-old stone walls. A distillery was nearby so we stopped to look and taste a wee dram. At the end of the day we met up with our luggage at the Winnock--nice to have a comfy bed, good food and a pint at the end of a long slog.
After a big Scottish breakfast (fancy fish for breakfast?), day two was a walk around Conic Hill where we had to tread lightly because of the new lambs. We got our first view of the lovely Loch Lomond, which we hiked alongside for several miles. The weather was uncharacteristically warm so the locals were enjoying the sunshine at the lake. We finished our 15 mile day at the Rowardennan Hostel, situated on the loch.
Weather still held on day three. The Way continued lakeside but the terrain became rocky and we had some scrambles. The wildflowers were brilliant! We saw the famous long haired Highland cattle, some large black feral goats and where Rob Roy hid out in a cave on the trail. As we neared the end of Loch Lomond we caught a glimpse of the treeless landscape in the distance. The 300 year old Drovers Inn was at the end of the 14 mile trek, but their rooms across the street were modern and well received, as was the good food, drink and Scottish band. At this point, we were beginning to see some regular WHW walkers that we’d leapfrog on the trail every day.The Scottish weather became more realistic on day four and we started and finished in rain, interrupted by huge gusts, hail and occasional sunbreaks. Jackets on, jackets off. This section from Inverarnen to Tyndrum was the least interesting landscape to me, perhaps because of the weather.
On day five the heavens unleashed and the hearty hikers did the 18 mile grunt from Tyndrum to Kingshouse in torrential rains and wind. This was a true test of gear and those that were best prepared suffered the least. The landscape was a gradual elevation gain thru forests and then heathered moors. Careful where you step off the trail. . . you may be swallowed by a peat bog! The Kingshouse, a lonely beacon in the wild wetness, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, was a welcomed sight. Even though the employees see trekkers every day, they still welcome you with coal fires, and a friendly pub. After a good night’s sleep, all is well with the feet.
Day six took us away from any roads and up and over some switchbacks called the Devil’s Staircase. We had started in rain but by the middle of the day we enjoyed sun again. At the peak, the views of the surrounding mountains was incomparable. The beauty here is in the stark simplicity of nature, the details apparent only by close inspection. It was amazing to me, so much so I began to sing Amazing Grace, one of my favorite songs, written by a grateful Scottish pastor that must have seen some of the vistas I was looking at. (I offered to sing it to the group but didn’t get any takers.)
We finished our easy (?) 9 miles to Kinlochleven, at the Blackwater Hostel, a very fine 4 star hostel. Robin and Larry even had the energy to try ice climbing at the largest indoor ice climbing facility in the world. It seems this is real mountaineering country, an area that appeals to not only hikers but climbers; many of the peaks are only accessible with technical equipment. Fun to watch R & L scale the ice wall with crampons and ice axes.
We did the final 14 mile leg of the WHW on day seven from Kinlochleven to Ft.William, fortunately in decent weather. It was a mixture of splendid scenery and, other than the motorcycle trials they allowed on about a mile of the trail, it was a fantastic finish to the sign indicating the end of the West Highland Way in Ft.William. We enjoyed our “last supper” together and all went in different directions the next day. Some of us continued our Scottish sojourn with a wild car ride to the Isle of Skye, another wonderfully remote and rugged landscape.
Suzanne Randell
